At the beginning of the route along the western coast of the island, just after Rhodes town, you will see Kritika. It is a settlement of small, low and humble houses which differ from the traditional houses of Rhodes. They were built by the Turkish administration for the Muslim refugees who came from Crete in 1896-1897. Ialysos or Trianta is next, which is built on the ancient settlements of Ialysos. On the top of the hill, above Trianta, are two very important monuments: the acropolis of the ancient city of Ialysos and the medieval monastery of Kyra Filerimou. Continuing on the coastal road, the next settlement you encounter is Kremasti. You pass by Paradisi where the island’s airport is situated and you reach Soroni. Just after the last houses of the village there is a left detour which leads to Agios Soulas monastery in the woods. In front of the monastery there is a large recreational green park with playgrounds, courts, picnic areas and a tavern.
The reason that this location has become very popular is because of the spring water. According to tradition, Ai Soulas (Saint Soulas) was Saint Paul’s companion. He also got off at Lindos and he came until here to preach Christianity. The villagers though were not believers. He took a person from the audience who was full of wounds and immersed him into the water and he was cured. The villagers immediately changed their stance! The holy water comes out of a fountain in the shape of a lion’s head which is in the front of the small church of Agios Soulas. It is considered therapeutic for skin conditions and specifically for psoriasis. Every summer on 29-30 July a large religious festival takes place at Agios Soulas with horse and donkey races.
Returning back onto the coastal road, you pass by Fanes and Kalavarda and 3.3 km after the latter you make a left. An 800 m uphill road leads you to the archaeological site of Kamiros. 13 km ahead you will reach Kamiros Skala, or Skala Kamirou, a small harbor with fish taverns. Every morning ferries leave from here to Chalki (the boat trip takes an hour). Just after the harbor you will see on your right a detour with a sign saying Kastello. The car reaches until the castle’s gate (1.7 km), which towers on a hill rock above the sea, with a stunning view of the Aegean, Chalki and Alimia islands opposite. Inside are the ruins of the settlement where the guards lived and of the catholic church of Saint Paul.
Continuing on the road of Kastello, after 700 m you come out again onto the central road and continue towards Kritinia. It is worth making a stop at Kritinia square, at the small coffee place which is situated under the shade of the one thousand year old plane-tree. The last stop is at Embonas which is 7km after Kritinia, in the heartland of the island. This village is renowned for its wine and its traditional costumes. Its square is called pista (dance floor), as it is where the dancing venues are held.
- History has it that Rhodes was the first island on the Aegean where vines were cultivated and wine was made. It is a fact that the Rhodesians were already the biggest wine traders in the Mediterranean since 7BC. Vines are still cultivated in Rhodes and its wine is unique.
- The mountainous region of western Rhodes (Emponas, Agios Isidoros, Siana) are renowned for having the best grapes for wine-making. The athiri, the moschato (white) and the amorgiano (red) are the preferred varieties.
- Emery Company was established in 1923 in Embonas. At its winery, which is situated at the village’s entrance, visitors can take a tour around the production and ageing areas, learn the history behind Rhodesian wine and taste the ouzo and the wine made there. The Rodofili (white fume from athiri), the Zacosta (aged red wine in oak barrels from amorgiano) and the Granrose (rose from amorgiano grapes) are worth the tasting. The winery is open every day from morning till evening.
- A smaller winery, Merkouri, is situated at the other end of the village.